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Cooling CCD Chip
Written By Mark Keitel
One
thing I'd read when doing my tests on flow vs. cooling is that it
is a myth that anything but
faster is better. The logic is something along the lines of:
If you flow slowly, then the
coolant heats up more. Since thermal transfer efficiency depends
on delta-t, there will be more thermal resistance to drawing away the
heat. Some of the absorbed heat will flow back into the camera. At
the limiting case of infinite flow speed, you can imagine that any heat
in the camera block will be transferred to the coolant and drawn away
instantly.
I was going to
do some experimenting on flow rates yesterday in a closed system
compared to an open one in
relation to the manufacturers specifications. Upon looking into
alternative pumps to the Eheim line I came across this study already
done. If you want to know REAL life numbers on flow rates in a
closed cooling system then this is for you
http://www.procooling.com/articles/html/pump_comparison__-_phaestus__1.php
Did a little research on coolers and wonder if for this application the
following might work well
Lets talk about really cooling off the chip, and at a very reasonable
price under $350
http://www.aquastealth.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=96
If the water is brought to
just above freezing with this 1/4 HP chiller would that work?
Specifications:
1/4HP and the normal model
unmodified has, HEAT REMOVAL RATING OF 1500 BTU/HR. PULLS A 80 GALLON
TANK DOWN 10 DEGREES Digital Temperature control * LCD displays water
temperature * Controller turns unit on when temperature rises 1.5 degree
* R134a Refrigerant *
Recommended 100-400GPH flow *
Dimensions 14.4"x12"x10.2" * 3/4 Inlet/Outlet * 3/4" Tubing
included! * 120V 60Hz operation
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This is the intial set-up of the system. |
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I
used a small reservoir for this. The larger ones
just did not seam to be needed for this application.
As you can see it gets hot here during a summer day in
the Observatory here in Tampa. However the
humidity on this day was low |
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This is what the system looks like set-up. I have
modified this somewhat. Just on how the lines are
done, nothing more than that. |
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I have
been testing out a modified chiller now for two weeks
and find that my ( this is May-2004) system is less than
2 gallons of water high Tamp Florida Humidity and I am
not in the summer yet. I can say that so far I am very
happy with the results so far. I am using a 1/4 hp
chiller
First test done:
the temp was
72 and humidity 82% I ran the 10xe with no
secondary cooler and got to -5 94%
Turned on the
chiller and set the water to 39 degrees the chiller says
it will go down to 32 though with that humidity and the
lines not being insulated I did not go that low The chip
cooled to - 15 and I ran it all night that way. In the
morning it
was a nice 70
by the scope, and humidity in the observatory was 86%
chip
still at -15
and 90%
Now this was
not done as a bench test and the hoses running to the
camera were 8' long each one. The whole system has 20'
of line 1/2" tubing was
used. And the
camera ran from midnight to 6:30am taking images all
night. Did not want the camera to be idle when I
tested this Since my secondary cooler has not worked
since early last year I was not able to get the camera
lower than -5 and even 0 all last summer. am using
the Particle Wave desiccant plug and saw no frosting in
the camera or the sub frames. The tubes did have
moisture on them and there was evidence of dripping from
the tubes on the indoor-outdoor carpet that I have in
the observatory. When I moved the mount to park1
position ( AP mount) there was allot of dripping
occurring from the camera area, though when I walked
over to the cameras I did not notice anything weird.
This was also at 6:30am after a full night
of dew too,
so the scopes could have also caused that dripping to
happen
too.
All in all I think that if I wrapped the lines and
reservoir with insulation
I might just
be able to get another 5 degrees colder?
Maybe not sure on that one. The condensation on the
lines would definitely stop though
System being run:
The whole system will be running 1/2"
tubing and at the camera there are two
reducers down
to the 1/4" to go into the camera
Ehiem 1250
pump
http://www.dangerden.com/images/pumps/e1250l.gif
Chiller
http://www.aquastealth.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=245
Reservoir
http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Misc_Hardware/round.asp
You are
welcome and will try and answer any questions you may
have
1)How long
does the chiller take to get to below 40?
I have not
been able to get the chiller lower than 35 degrees as of
yet and
the ambient
temp last night was down to 61 degrees at the lowest. I
am
using very
little fluid in my system a total of 20' of 1/2" tubing
the water
pump, the
chiller, and a small reservoir that might hold 10 oz. I
put 8 oz
of isopropyl
alcohol in this system the rest tap water. Last night
when I
started at
ambient temp of 65 I had the chiller down to 40 degrees
within 35
min. That was
my set point then I tried to go lower from there and
could
not get it
lower than the 35.5 degrees
Humidity last
night was 90%
2)Do I need
to pre-cool the water or is it pretty fast?
I do not, I
leave everything hooked up in my observatory and the
temp gauge
in there said
that yesterday's high was 94 in the observatory. There
really
is not allot
of fluid in the system that I am running
3)Have you
considered the overclocker technique of using the
cooling fluid
designed to
work in a PC? Not sure it adds anything but a bit of
anti-freeze.
Just use the
Isopropyl as stated
4)On
insulating the lines
Thought about
it have not acted yet
5)Do you
leave the hoses connected after shutdown or do you
drain? I
am
considering fast connects that seal when disconnected to
keep the
system full
but without the hoses hanging about.
I leave the
system hooked up. I tried the quick disconnects then had
something
hanging from the camera. Since I have a 1/4" to 1/2"
adaptor on
the camera
end I pull the line off the camera and use a 1/4" to 1/4
connect
both ends to
one another and the system is still closed and
disconnected. I
can then pull
apart and hook up and the reservoir takes out any air
that
might have
gotten in the system.
6) As when
parking the mount (AP too) I use #1 position which would
move
the hoses
quite a bit from say imaging to the south. Ahh more
electronic
gear....
I did not
skimp on the length of hose that I am using. The small
reservoir
sits on the
lower shelf of my AP pier tables I have a two tier one.
The
chiller sits
under that and the Eheim pump sits next to that. So the
reservoir is
higher than the chiller and pump yet lower than the
camera. I
can slew
anywhere in the sky and not worry about the hoses.
Though if I was
doing a
mapping run I would disconnect this system The hose that
connects
the camera
1/4" to the 1/4" to 1/2" hose is so short that the
adaptors 1/4"
end is just
about touching the 1/4" nipple that extends out of the
SBIG
camera. This
way I get very minimal crimping of the line since the
1/4"
line is the
smallest in this set-up and really isonly there to
connect the
adaptor to
the camera.
Hope this
helps
Last night once again this has happened
When I get
the camera down to -20 everything is fine ( NO secondary
cooler running Ambient temp last night 61) Power on
camera reading 80% so I reduced it down to -25 like the
night before and all hell broke loose. The temp reading
on the camera dropped to - 153.6 and could not get the
reading to change. Two nights ago I closed up shop and
went to bed. Last night I said no big deal left the temp
setting to -25 did not care what the reading on the
program was saying. Set up a sequence to image and did
darks with the lights. When I got back to the
observatory in morning it was
reading -25
and the camera setting was -25. My images were reading
-25, and
the darks
too. ONLY the fist 1200 sec image read -153.6 as my temp
So camera went to - 9 90% ambient temp 64 25 91% ambient
temp 60 Chiller water reading 35.5 degrees
The above problem was something wrong in the camera.
After talking with SBIG I shipped the camera back and a
part was replaced. I can not remember the name of
the part though. I wrote this so that if anyone
gets these weird temp reading they know that there is
something wrong with the camera and SBIG will know
exactly what is wrong.
UPDATE
I ran this system now all summer long and it is now
December. When the camera went back to SBIG for
the fix I also had them fix the Secondary cooler for
this camera. All summer long I was imaging at -20
or -25 depending on how hot it was and the humidity.
The Secondary cooler gave me an extra 8 degrees in the
Summer and the chiller gave me about another 18 or so
degrees. When I pushed the system I was able to
get the chip down to -40 in the summer time.
However the moisture on the camera was unruly. And
this temperature was really not obtainable then it was
75 outside with humidity of 98%. I never did insulate the lines. But
what I did end up doing was placing a Dew Heater strip
around the camera. I placed it loosely around
there the camera and filter wheel meet. I
did this because in the humid summer months the camera
was dripping with water. I figured not a good
thing. I place the heater element on low ( I can
control how long this element cycles thanks to the new
Kendrick Dew Controller) I get no dew or moisture
on the camera anymore, and now that it is getting colder
I am down to -35 now where I only dreamed about that
temperature in the odd very very cold nights. I
can not wait to see the first night under 58 degrees
outside. I bet I can get to -45 and really frost
things up
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